Rockstomper Type II Skid Plate

To remove or install the skid plate I used a floor jack to lift in into place. Weighing in at 35 pounds it is not light. The skid plate needs to be removed to change the motor oil and the front differential fluid. If you do not perform this maintenance yourself I would not recommend this product for you.

Rockstomper Type II skid plate on the left, Stock Toyota skid plate on the right.

I used all 5 threaded holes on crossover number one. The stock skid plate only used 3 of them.

The Rockstomper Type II skid plate did not use the second set of bolt holes that the stock skid plate used on crossover number two. I figured that the Toyota engineers put those brackets and bolt there for a reason so I fabed up some supports out of 1/4" thick 2" square tube. I added a Daystar KU09007 low profile bump stop kit to the ends. If the skid plate takes a hard blow the bump stops will absorb some of the force and the brackets will prevent the skid plate from bending in like the brackets on the stock skid plate did.

In the rear I drilled a 1.5" hole with a drill saw for easy alignment and a quick install/uninstall. I then made some 2.5" X 4" washers out of 1/4" thick steel. This will allow the skid plate to flex as it takes the blows as well as allow for an extremely easy install and removal. In the future I will most likely weld some steel around the large washers so they can not rotate and I will then grind a slope into then so if the plate is sliding over a rock the only protrusion will be the bolt head. Basically build little ramps around the large washers. I'll see how well this configuration works first though.

A view from the side. The interior support angle iron no longer comes close to the radiator and you can see the extra supports I added in. You do get a very slight vibration at times that you can feel in your feet. Other than that this is an excellent product and installed easily in a day with all my custom tweaks.

I added 4"x4" 1/4" thick plates to the bottom to space the plate down a hair. It was smashed up against the lower IFS brace and the two were rubbing quite a bit. I also thought this would strengthen up the bolt hole area as well. This seems to be a favorite place of tire changers to pace their jacks as well.

I added rear diff like bolt head protection. 2" thick wall tube. These are 1/2" sections.

Protection for the bolt heads. Inspired by Allen Dickenson of all people.

After welding on the 4X4 plates the skid plate "oil canned". So I added 1/2" angle iron to flatten it out a bit and add some strength.

Remodeled support blocks, adjusted to have the poly bumpers touch the skid plate. The 4x4 plates required these to be lowered a bit as well.

On the trail.

Here is the now removed text from Rockstompers site on the now discontinued skid plate.

The base skidplate is brakeformed from 11 gauge steel, reinforced to take some serious abuse, and available in three configurations.

All skidplates are shipped as unpainted steel. We ran our first prototype, unpainted, for over five years, on Colorado roads and trails, with no real rust. Paint just chips off anyway, the first rock you hit.

Type 2 skidplate: Just like the Type 1, but more of it. Extends to the rear of the lower control arms. Bolts onto our IFS frame brace. Drilling required. If you've got somebody else's frame brace, you'll have to drill into it. If you don't have a frame brace, you need to add one. Check out IFS Frame Braces for more info, and to find out why you need one. Frame braces are part of every Rancho, ProComp, Trailmaster, and Superlift IFS lift kit, so don't stress if you've got one of those, we've got you covered. Drilling will be required. Tacoma does not require a frame brace.

One thing that applies to all skidplates, is that they're going to get dented and banged up. That's a fact of life, and there's a couple of things we can do about it.

1. Stop banging them on rocks, stumps, small cars, or other trail obstacles. Nah, that's not gonna happen.
2. Make them thicker, heavier, stronger... but there's a flaw to that. Check out how thick your frame is, and consider whether you'd want the skidplate to bend first, or your frame to suffer. That's why we make our skidplates a little thinner and a little less expensive. It saves you money, your frame stress, and the UPS guy's back.

So our skidplates are intentionally designed to get dented and beaten up, but to be the part that takes that beating, instead of just simply transferring all that stress to your frame. A skidplate is really just a sacrificial item anyway. We make ours beefy enough to last, but not so heavy that it'll beat up your frame or your UPS guy.

Custom made Arizona Skid plate. CNC break bent from 11 gauge hot rolled plate.

Full frontal radiator enclosure.

Same support blocks as the Rockstomper Type II with the poly bushings on the end to provide support for the bottom bend. Sides were increased from 1" angle to 2" angle to enclose more of the open ends.

All of the inserts were TIG welded in place with stich welds to keep the heat to a minimum and the bends from moving. The same final inside bracing that I ended up with on my Rockstomper Type II was applied to the Arizona skid plate as well.

5 supports across the front, 1 support on the bend and 4 supports through the back. The rear mount holes are spaced down and reinforced with 1/4" plate.

Bottom has 3/8" tall rings to protect the bolt heads while being dragged over rocks.

These skids were made by Steve Schaefer and Mike Nevitt with help from Bill Durham in Phoenix, Arizona during March to September of 2003. I am no longer involved in the production of these skid plates.


Stock Toyota Front Skid Plate	Rockstomper Type II Front Skid Plate	Custom "Arizona Made" Front Skid Plate